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stak
04-06-2011, 01:53 AM
Please post your current organic soil or soilless mixes.

I don't have any experience with any mixes but I have taken an interest in them lately so I have come across a few good ones that I will post. If you have any opinions or experience with them please chime in.

GaladrielDreams
04-06-2011, 02:06 AM
I'm using Fox Farms Happy Frog for Veg, and Fox Farms Ocean Forest for Flower.

Both are organic. I am very happy with them.

stak
04-06-2011, 02:12 AM
LC's Mix is great for any stage of growth. You can germ seeds in it, grow mothers in
it, root clones in it as well as veg and flower in it.

Pick one of the first two soiless mix recipes for your grow medium. Then, choose a nutrient recipe that will work best for what you have available.


LC’s Soiless Mix #1:

5 parts Canadian Sphagnum Peat or Coir or Pro-Moss
3 parts perlite
2 parts worm castings or mushroom compost or home made compost
Powdered (NOT PELLETED) dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.


Or, if you use Pro Mix, Sunshine Mix or Fox Farm mixes...

LC's Soiless Mix #2:

6 parts Pro Mix BX or HP / Sunshine Mix (any flavor from #1 up) / Fox Farm Ocean Forest or Light Warrior
2 parts perlite
2 parts earthworm castings
Powdered (NOT PELLETED) dolomite lime @ 2 tablespoons per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of the soiless mix.


If you use a 3 qt. saucepan as “parts” in the amounts given above, it equals about 1 cu. ft. of soiless mix and you can just dump in a cup of powdered dolomite lime. The dolomite lime is for Ca. and Mg. not just to adjust the PH of the soil.

But, a "part" can be anything from a tablespoon to a five gallon bucket. Just use the same item for all of the "parts".



Now for the plants organic food source

Choose one of these organic plant food recipes to add to LC's Soiless Mix.


RECIPE #1
If you want to use organic nutrients like Blood meal, Bone meal and Kelp meal...

1 tablespoon Blood meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
2 tablespoons Bone meal per gallon or 1 cup per cubic foot of soil mix
1-tablespoon kelp meal per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of soil mix or Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract as directed
(OPTIONAL) 1 tablespoon per gallon or 1/2 cup per cubic foot of Jersey Greensand or Azomite to supplement the K (potasium) in the Kelp Meal and seaweed extract.

Mix all the dry nutrients into the soiless mix well and wet it, but don't soak it. Use Liquid Karma and water @ 1 tbs./gal. Stir and mix it a few times a week for a week or two so the bacteria can get oxygen and break down the nutrients and make it available. And don't let the mix dry out, keep it moist and add water as needed. It'll also have time to get the humic acids in the Liquid Karma going and the dolomite lime will be better able to adjust the pH of a peat based mixture too.

With this recipe, all you need to do is add plain water until harvest.


RECIPE #2
If you want to use guano in your soil mix...
Bongaloid's Guano Mix.

Use all these items combined with one gallon of soil mix.

1/3C hi N Guano Mexican Bat Guano or Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
1/2C hi P Guano (Jamaican or Indonesian Bat Guano)
1TBS Kelp Meal
(OPTIONAL) 1TBS Jersey Greensand Or Azomite


RECIPE #3
If you want to use guano tea and kelp...

Seedlings less than 1 month old nutrient tea mix:
Mix 1 cup earthworm castings into 5 gallons of water to make the tea. You can also just use a Handful in 1 gallon of water if your needs are less. Add 5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses. You can use a fish tank aerator with a diffuser and bubble it for 24 hours @ 70 degrees.
Use it to water your seedlings with every 2nd or 3rd watering.

Veg mix:
1/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano (PSG)
or
1/3 cup High N Bat Guano (Mexican)
1/3 cup Earth Worm Castings (EWC)
5 tsp. Maxicrop 1-0-4 powdered kelp extract or Acadian Kelp extract.
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 1 cup of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.
To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma or a good Humic or Fulvic acid
5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses

Use it to water with every 3rd watering.

Flower mix:
2/3 cup Peruvian Seabird Guano
2/3 cup Earth Worm Castings
2/3 cup High P Guano (Indonesian or Jamaican)
5 tsp. Acadian powdered kelp extract
(That makes the "dry mix". You can make all you want and save it to use later.)
Mix with water @ 2 cups of dry mix into 5 gallons of water to make the tea.

To that 5 gallons of tea add:
5 tbs. Liquid Karma or a good Humic or Fulvic acid
5 tsp. Black Strap Molasses
Use it to water with EVERY watering.

You can use queen size knee high nylon stockings for tea bags. 3 pair for a dollar at the dollar store. Tell 'em you use them for paint strainers. Put the recommended tea in the stocking, tie a loop knot in it and hang it in your tea bucket. The tea should look like a mud puddle. Agitate the bag in the water vigorously. An aquarium pump and air stone will dissolve oxygen into the solution and keep the good bacteria (microherd) alive and thriving. Let it bubble a day or two before you use it. If you find you are making too much tea and having to throw it out, use 2 1/2 gallons of water and cut the nute amount by half.


RECIPE #4
Three Little Birds Method

40 gallons used soil
4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups bone meal
4 cups kelp meal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .
That’s the basic recipe . . .
However we also like to use
4 cups of Greensand
4 cups of Rock Phosphate
4 cups of diatomaceous earth


RECIPE #5
Fish and Seaweed
1 capful is 1 TB or 15 ml.

For veg growth:
1 capful 5-1-1 Fish Emulsion
1 capful Neptune's Harvest 0-0-1 Seaweed or Maxicrop liquid
1 gallon H2O

For early flowering:
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-3-1 Fish/Seaweed
1 gallon H2O

For mid to late flowering:
1 tbs. Neptune’s Harvest 2-4-1 Fish
1 gallon H2O


I haven't used this but I will be running a one plant test with mix#1 and recipe#1 on my next grow.

stak
04-06-2011, 02:13 AM
I'm using Fox Farms Happy Frog for Veg, and Fox Farms Ocean Forest for Flower.

Both are organic. I am very happy with them.

what nutes are you using with them? have you had any bad experiences with either?

GaladrielDreams
04-06-2011, 02:17 AM
I'm using Technaflora's Recipe for Success.

No bad experiences with either yet. First time user of Happy Frog. I am very impressed.

stak
04-06-2011, 02:26 AM
Subcool's Super Soil

6 Bags Roots soil or equivalent high quality supped up grow soil(BASE)
25 pounds Pure Worm Castings
½ cup Azomite trace minerals
2/3 Cup Sweet Lime (Dolomite)
5lbs Bone meal
5lbs Blood meal
5lbs Bat Guano bloom formula (preferably Fruit bats)
3/4 cup Epson Salts

Mix everything up, add water, and let the soil cook for at least 30 days. You cannot grow plants directly in this super concentrate. Place established clones or seedlings in pots that have been filled with the bottom half super soil and the upper half the (BASE) soil only. For heavy feeding plants you can go up to the bottom 3/4 super soil and upper 1/4 (BASE) soil.




Subcool used this mix for a long time so there has to be something good about it?

stak
04-06-2011, 02:26 AM
I'm using Technaflora's Recipe for Success.

No bad experiences with either yet. First time user of Happy Frog. I am very impressed.

cool, thanks!

stak
04-06-2011, 02:33 AM
Subcool's 2010 revised super soil



8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil with coco and Mycorrhizae (BASE)
25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0
¾ cup Epsom salt
1 cup Sweet lime (Dolomite)
½ cup Azomite ( Trace element)
2 Tbs. powdered Humic acid
*** If using an RO system add in 1/2 cup powdered Cal/mag

Mix everything up, add water, and let the soil cook for at least 30 days. You cannot grow plants directly in this super concentrate. Place established clones or seedlings in pots that have been filled with the bottom half super soil and the upper half the (BASE) soil only. For heavy feeding plants you can go up to the bottom 3/4 super soil and upper 1/4 (BASE) soil.

stak
04-17-2011, 02:50 AM
blazeoneup's mix



The soil mix consist of 1 bag of mriacle grow organic + 1 bag of pro mix + 1 cup blood meal + 1 cup bone meal + 1/2 cup dolimite lime + 10-20% added chunky perlite. Im running 3 gallon bags btw this mix will fill 10 3 gallon bags.Im running a few strains mostly chronic, But i have a couple URKLE and NYCD in there as well.

Clones were rooted in rapid rooters, Then transplanted to 16 oz styrofoam cups with plain jane pro mix, After they rooted the cups they were transplanted into the 3 gallon bags with the soil mix from above. When I run this soil mix I use plain water from day 1 all the way thru harvest.

RPsmoke
07-06-2011, 05:33 PM
From Matt Rize, SubCool and a little from Tim Wilson I believe:


Soil Recipe 1:
8 large bags of high quality organic potting soil
25-50 lbs. of organic worm castings
5 lbs. of Blood meal 12-0-0
5 lbs. Bat guano 0-5-0
5 lbs. Fish Bone Meal 3-16-0
¾ cup Epsom salt
1 cup Sweet lime (Dolomite)
½ cup Azomite ( Trace element)
2 Tbs. dry Humic acid. Mix well, wet, let sit for 2+ weeks. Subcool's Supersoil
Soil Recipe 2:
40 gallons used soil, or organic potting soil
4 cups alfalfa meal
4 cups bone meal
4 cups kelp meal
4 cups powdered dolomite lime
30 pound bag of earthworm castings . . .
That’s the basic recipe . . . However we also like to use:
4 cups of Greensand
4 cups of Rock Phosphate
4 cups of diatomaceous earth. Mix well, wet, let sit for 2+ weeks.
Soil Recipe 3:
20% Compost
20% Topsoil
15% Steer Compost
15% Mushroom Compost
20% Pumice
10% Coarse Sand
Worm Castings
VAM Mycorrhizal Fungi
Companion Planting:

Pests: Whiteflies, aphids, thrip, spider mites.
Predatory insect: Dicyphus.
Plants that will attract this:
1. FOXGLOVE. The flowers attract the predators, but this does not flower until the second year. Probably better to get one from a garden center.
2. MULLEN. This plant attracts the beneficial insects, but also is well known for being a smoking herb. It is actually known to prevent and treat pulmonary problems, as well as useful as a remedy for cough when smoked. It is generally flavorless when smoked, and if smoked with your weed, will almost nullify any coughing from the hit. Excellent for use in a six-footer.
Pests: Thrips, spidermites, fungus gnats.
Predatory insect: Beneficial mites.
Plants to attract these: 1. Shasta Daisy 2. Sunflower
Pests: Thrips, aphids, mites, scales, whiteflies.
Predatory insect: Pirate bugs.
Plants to attract these: 1. Shasta Daisy 2. Sunflowers.
The following plants either help with soil structure, add nutrients to soil, or help repel pests.
ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.
BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavor. Keep beans away from the alliums.
BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Companions are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas. Garlic improves growth and flavor. They are also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.
BORAGE: One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles.
CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.
GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores and when used as a soil drench is also taken up by the roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away! Hey, worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too.
LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Lavenders can protect nearby plants from insects such as whitefly, and lavender planted under and near fruit trees can deter codling moth. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.
LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!
LOVAGE: Gets very large and can be used for Camo, also known to improve flavor in almost all vegetables and herbs it is planted with.
MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.
MINT: all forms of mint including peppermint, spearmint, catnip, horehound, contain menthol which repels nasty bugs and attracts beneficial ones.
NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!
STINGING NETTLES: Good for guerrilla growers trying to prevent their plants being found/stolen. Plant them in a big patch a decent radius around your plot, and they will quickly spread. Anyone who walks more than a foot into the patch will NOT be very happy, and is likely to turn around.
PEAS: Like beans, these drop large amounts of nitrogen into the soil. Great for veg cycle. Highly recommended.
CHILI PEPPERS: These exude chemicals from their roots that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. They are also useful if deer, rabbits or mice often try to feed on your plot, as they are likely to try one of the chili fruits and then not try to feed in that area again.
SOUTHERNWOOD: good camo plant as it gets large quickly and makes a strong lemony smell if brushed that can cover up the smell of your prized plants.
SOYBEANS: Another heavy nitrogen producer. grow it with your plants during veg cycle to throw them some extra organic nitrogen
TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavor of vegetables.
YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them.
The Soil Amendments Plus:

A soil amendment is any material added to a soil to improve its physical properties, such as water retention, permeability, water infiltration, drainage, aeration and structure. The goal is to provide a better environment for roots.
To do its work, an amendment must be thoroughly mixed into the soil. If it is merely buried, its effectiveness is reduced, and it will interfere with water and air movement and root growth.
Amending a soil is not the same thing as mulching, although many mulches also are used as amendments. A mulch is left on the soil surface. Its purpose is to reduce evaporation and runoff, inhibit weed growth, and create an attractive appearance. Mulches also moderate soil temperature, helping to warm soils in the spring and cool them in the summer. Mulches may be incorporated into the soil as amendments after they have decomposed to the point that they no longer serve their purpose.
Perlite: Volcanic glass that has been expanded with heat to make a white pebbles. Many prefer large size perlite because it lasts longer. For containers
Vermiculite: Vermiculite is a naturally occurring mineral composed of shiny flakes, resembling mica. When heated to a high temperature, flakes of vermiculite expand as much as 8-30 times their original size.
Pumice: Pumice is a type of extrusive volcanic rock, produced when lava with a very high content of water and gases (together these are called volatiles) is extruded (or thrown out of) a volcano.
Grits and Sands: Chicken Grit, Sharp Sand, Builder's Sand, not small grain or play sand!
Horticultural Charcoals:
Terra Preta = Compost plus Charcoal.
WoodChar: Low to medium temps, longer lasting. Soak in tea pre-use to charge with nutrients.
BioChar: Low temperature charcoal from wood & leafy plants.
Charred Rice Hulls: The favorite choice of many for DIY
Compost: Plant matter than has decomposed.
VermiCompost: Worm castings. Nutritional value varies. ie 1-1-1
Peat Moss: Common soil builder. Peat + Compost = soil.
Lime: pH stabilizer and Calcium/Magnesium source
Agricultural Lime: Calcium Carbonate. Hydrated Lime = faster
Dolomite Lime: Calcium and Magnesium Carbonate
Animal Sources: bat/bird guano, manures from livestock, oyster shells, worm castings, insect frass, eggs shells, chicken manure, humanure,
Mineral (Rock): Soft/hard rock phosphate, epsom salt, Azomite, lime,
Vegetable: Kelp meal, Alfalfa meal, Cottonseed Meal, Soybean meal, charcoal, Molasses, Vinasse,
Aerated Compost Tea (AACT or ACT):

A process involving adding oxygen to:
1) Water
2) Compost (in a large 'tea' bag)
3) Food source for the biology in the compost
By creating optimal conditions for aerobic microbes, ACT allows you to multiply the biology in the starting compost exponentially. Many plant pathogens are anaerobic and prefer low to no oxygen conditions. By making sure the tea and the compost itself are well oxygenated and highly aerobic, you can potentially eliminate 75 percent of the potential plant-disease-causing bacteria and plant-toxic products.
Compost Tea Recipe: ½ cup compost (worm castings), 1½ tbsp organic molasses, 1tsp yucca juice, ½ tsp fish hydrolysate, ½ tsp kelp meal. Per gallon.
Directions: Use chlorine-free water, the best local compost you can find, aerate vigorously 18 to 24 hours. Strain. Dilute 1:20 or more. Spray on your plants and water into the soil during low light conditions every two weeks until you see flowers.

stak
07-07-2011, 02:14 AM
awesome post. wish I could rep it more than once!

Diesel Farmer
07-07-2011, 02:45 AM
great thread Stak! I would like to see a soil comparison grow, we`ve seen all kinds of light comparison grows lets see a soil one! A cheap K-grow (K-mart brand) VS. tip top super soil mix, anyone? I may do it myself just for fun : )

RPsmoke
07-07-2011, 05:07 PM
I'm working on something just like that DF. Working on a vegan organic super soil. Want to compare it to a regular super soil. I also want to compare two indoor plants using Roots 707 and top feed vegan organics vs. Super Soil. Not exactly K-mart vs top end, but should be fun. Actually taking four cuttings off a chiesel tonight. Once they root, I may give it a go! If it happens, I'll definitely post about it. Probably in my grow journal.

Muddy
07-13-2011, 08:11 PM
I use Pro Mix, BX for outdoors, HP for indoors, both with Mycorise.

For starting plants I use BX, whether the plants are for indoors or out. I find the HP dries out too quickly for seedlings. The only thing I add to it is 1/2 teaspoon of blood meal per gallon of mix. Pro Mix does contain macro and micro nutrients, but in small amount. Without the added blood meal I sometimes start to see N deficiency after about 2 weeks.

When transplanting to final pots I use:

3 gallon Pro Mix
1 gallon manure (worm castings, cow manure or goat manure)
1/2 gallon perlite
5 tablespoons blood meal
5 tablespoons bone meal
5 tablespoons Epson salts
8 tablespoons kelp
1 cup hydrated lime

This mixture will usually pH between 5.8 to 6, depending on the manure. Additional lime many be needed to further raise the pH.

At transplant I also add a little more mycorrhizal fungi to compensate for the additional manure. The amount varies depending on pot size. 1 teaspoon for a 5 gallon pot. I start 1/4 strength feedings at 2 weeks and increase to 1/2 strength after two feedings. At transplant the first feeding contains micronized humic acid and trace minerals. The humic acid will stimulate the mycorrhizal fungi and is repeated every 4 weeks. After that I continue 1/2 strength feedings with the occasional full strength, depending on the plant. Outdoor plants get a full strength feeding after heavy rains.

Chowder
01-11-2012, 09:57 PM
I used this mix last year and was very happy with the results. It's not the cheapest, but it was designed as a water/AACT only mix, and to that end it worked well for me. The ratios I settled upon were derived from the work of other growers out there kind enough to share their secrets, so they may not be ideal, but I did like the results:

50/50 mix of Fox Farms Ocean Forest and Light Warrior
Perlite added in an amount equal to 1/3 the total volume of mixed soil

then,

Alfalfa Meal: 3 pts per gallon
Flaxseed Meal: 3 pts per gallon
Fish Meal: 1 pt per gallon
Fish Bone Meal: 1 pt per gallon
Kelp Meal: 1/2 pt per gallon
Neem Seed Meal: 1/2 pt per gallon
Oyster Shell: 1/2 pt per gallon
Granular Azomite: 1/2 pt per gallon
Granular Humic Acid: 1 pt per gallon
Great White by Plant Success at recommended rate
Bat Guano: 1/4 cup per gallon
Seabird Guano: 1/4 cup per gallon

Mix it up and let it cook for a few weeks until it cools down. This mix gets super, super hot when the microbes start doing their thing, so definitely have to wait to plant anything in it, and I for sure wouldn't start any seedlings in it, but it works well. I'm looking forward to spring so I can mess around with it again.

SmoochieBoochies
05-16-2012, 04:54 AM
Smoochie's Mix (3 gallon pot):

2.25 gallon Fafard FOF 30
0.5 gallon worm castings (1-0-0)
6 cups clean sand
1 cup perlite
3 tablespoons greensand (0-0-0.1)
2 tablespoons kelp meal (1-0-2)
1 cup Espoma Bio-tone Starter (4-3-3)
2 tablespoons bat guano (10-5-3)
1 tablespoon bone meal (6-9-0)
3 tablespoons dolomite lime
3 earthworms

Mix thoroughly and water in pot, let stand for three days.

Happy Growing!

patanjali
05-30-2012, 06:17 AM
I just mixed up a small new batch today. It will be the base for my next flowering round.

1 bag FFOF 1.5 cu.ft.
1/2 bag Light Warrior
About 2 gallons large perlite
Heaping handful of Vermi Compost
Heaping Handful of Alaskan Humus
1/2 c Blood Meal
1 1/2 c Fish Bone Meal
1 c Kelp Meal
1/2 c Azomite
1/2 c Rock Phosphate
1 c powdered Dolamite Lime
1/2 c Alfalfa Meal
1/4 Crab Medal
1/4 c Neem Seed Meal
2 tbs of granular Humic Acid

This was mixed well, wetted (not soaked), and placed in a rubber maid for a week or two before use. I would like to mixed it a little earlier, but wasn't possible.

I'm a total newbie at mixing organic super soils, so input is appreciated! :supersmile: